The end is finally in sight. After months of dust, drilling and daily voice chats with your ID, your home renovation is almost done. Before you start inviting friends and relatives over for housewarming though, there’s just one more thing to do: the final walkthrough with your ID.It’s the last time to point out defects and make sure everything you’ve paid for is actually there and done right. Sure, most IDs do provide a warranty period of between 6 to 12 months, but why wait when you can settle everything once and for all before you move in?Here's a (non-exhaustive) checklist that will help you go through that final walkthrough:<h3>What to Bring</h3><figure class="image"><img style="aspect-ratio:1824/1216;" src="https://d213h1b7vxzzl3.cloudfront.net/editor/af6f490a-3eaa-4511-85f7-7ea02ec69b87-blob" width="1824" height="1216"></figure>&nbsp;Your quotation, electrical and lighting plan + 3D renderings: Don’t just rely on memory. Bring your itemised quotation, electrical and lighting plan, and 3D drawings if any along with you during the walkthrough. Because even if you’ve discussed a hundred things verbally with your ID, only what’s documented counts. We recommend marking off each item as you inspect it. That way, you won’t leave out anything.Torchlight (or your phone’s flashlight in a pinch!): A strong torchlight can help you spot flaws that might be hidden by the ambient mood lighting you’ve chosen. Things like misaligned panels in shadowed corners or cracks in grout lines often get missed out.&nbsp;Spirit level: Not everything that looks straight is straight. So get a spirit level that helps you check whether things are straight. Ikea sells them for cheap <a href="https://www.ikea.com/sg/en/p/trixig-spirit-level-70563727/">here</a>. This tool can help you check shelves, cabinets, countertops and tile edges. How to use? Run it along long drawers or wardrobes to confirm alignment. Hold it against vertical cabinet edges to check for tilting. Or, lay it flat on surfaces like countertops or open shelves.Measuring tape: For making sure everything is built according to the agreed and paid-for measurements.3-in 1 power adaptor along with something simple and convenient to plug in, like a mini fan: Great for making sure your sockets work and that your electrician hasn’t missed out on a connection. Do check for those “hidden” ones behind the headboard or inside cabinets/wardrobes.&nbsp;Masking tape or post-its: For marking out issues on-site directly.&nbsp;&nbsp;<h3>What to Look Out For</h3>Once you’re properly equipped, it’s time to start checking the actual renovation work. Here’s what to inspect:&nbsp;<h4>Electrical and Lighting Points</h4><figure class="image"><img style="aspect-ratio:1316/876;" src="https://d213h1b7vxzzl3.cloudfront.net/editor/c749d031-8154-44db-9e6e-d76b2b05623c-blob" width="1316" height="876"></figure>&nbsp;Do all the switches work? Flip every single one, and not just the obvious ones like your living room lights. Don’t forget things like bathroom mirror lights, cove lighting or the balcony/service yard light. If you have two-way switches (e.g. near the bed or front door), check that both ends work as intended. If you requested dimmers or USB-integrated switches, make sure they respond properly and don’t feel loose or glitchy.&nbsp;Are the power sockets live? Use the adaptor that you brought along to test each socket. If you’re in a resale flat and only some outlets were replaced, don’t forget to test the original ones too. Pay special attention to sockets that are “hidden” like those tucked behind the TV feature wall, inside kitchen cabinets or under vanity tables. These are easily forgotten but very annoying to fix later if they aren’t working.&nbsp;&nbsp;Check for duplicate outlets. Sometimes during reno changes, old ones aren’t removed.&nbsp;All lights should come on instantly. There should be no flickering, buzzing or delay. LED strips in cove lighting or cabinetry should be evenly installed and fully concealed, and have no harsh light spilling out or visible hot spots (e.g. an intense bright light at one spot).&nbsp;&nbsp;Check light orientation. Are your track lights angled correctly? Are your pendant lights hanging straight and centred? Ceiling lights should sit flush, and not tilted or wobbling.&nbsp;Are the socket placements correct according to your lighting or electrical plan? Check their positioning. Ones inside carpentry (like your pantry cabinet) should still be easily reachable. If you asked for specific locations, like a socket at your dining table for hotpot nights, confirm it's been done.&nbsp;If you requested for smart switches, make sure they are the right brands, models and configured correctly. Is everything labelled properly, or will you have to guess which switch controls what?&nbsp; Try controlling the lights via the app to make sure everything responds as intended. If your smart system includes automation scenes or voice commands (e.g. ‘Movie Mode’ dims certain lights), test those too.&nbsp;Are the right power ratings used for your appliances? Big-ticket appliances like storage heaters, ovens, or built-in washer-dryers usually require a 15A power point, while regular appliances use 13A. Make sure the correct type has been installed in each location. A standard 13A point won’t cut it for high-power items and may even trip the circuit breaker.&nbsp;Ceiling fans: are they installed securely and spinning smoothly? Turn on every fan and test all speeds. Does the fan wobble, make clicking sounds or hum excessively? Try the remote (if applicable) and test all its functions: speed control, oscillation, lights, timers, etc. Some newer models even have app or voice controls. Check that those are working too.&nbsp;Ventilation fans (e.g. bathroom exhaust fans or kitchen hood extractors): are they functioning properly? Switch them on and listen. Is the suction strong enough? Any unusual rattling or loud buzzing?&nbsp;<h4>Plumbing</h4><figure class="image"><img style="aspect-ratio:1216/1824;" src="https://d213h1b7vxzzl3.cloudfront.net/editor/2f2cf222-6bf9-455a-a0df-09a825650129-blob" width="1216" height="1824"></figure>Design: <a href="https://www.renonation.sg/professional/the-local-inn.terior">The Local Inn.terior</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;Turn on every tap and let it run for a while. This includes your kitchen sinks, bathroom basins, shower mixers, and the service yard and balcony areas. Let the water run for a minute or two to check for leaks around joints and beneath the sink. If your water heater has already been connected, test both the hot and cold water to make sure temperature control is working.&nbsp;Check water pressure. Low pressure in a new setup can be caused by poor plumbing or stuck debris.&nbsp;Listen for odd sounds like gurgling or knocking. This may indicate a choked drain or trapped air in the plumbing system.&nbsp;Check every drain point: sink, basin, shower, service yard, and balcony. Water should flow away easily without pooling. Slow drainage could mean a partial blockage (possibly due to reno debris!) or badly sloped flooring. Consider pouring a bucket of water to test how fast and evenly the wet areas drain. This helps you spot pooling or poorly sloped tiles.&nbsp;Look for swelling or moisture damage inside under-sink cabinets, especially where plumbing runs through built-ins.&nbsp;Flush each toilet a few times. The water should flush away strongly and not dribble in or keep running after. If you opted for an upgraded system like a "tornado flush”, check that it works as promised.&nbsp;Run a laundry cycle (if you can). If your washer is already installed, try running a quick cycle. This tests both the drainage and the power point. Plus you’ll spot any issues with water leaks, especially if your washer is housed in a cabinet.&nbsp;Check pipe concealment (if applicable). If you requested for exposed pipes to be boxed up or hidden within cabinetry, check if they are well concealed. Concealment shouldn’t make future access impossible. There should still be a small opening or removable panel for servicing. If not, you may be forced to hack away your carpentry next time there’s a leak.&nbsp;<h4>Carpentry Finishes and Functional Checks</h4><figure class="image"><img style="aspect-ratio:1824/1216;" src="https://d213h1b7vxzzl3.cloudfront.net/editor/e5a7ddf5-524f-4b8d-9cee-266ca6f46dc2-blob" width="1824" height="1216"></figure>Design: <a href="https://www.renonation.sg/professional/chengyi-interior-design">Chengyi Interior Design</a>&nbsp;Are the correct laminate finishes used? For instance, if you requested for a fingerprint resistant one, check to see if that was what was installed. If you requested for natural patterns, are the grains or swirls are oriented consistently and naturally? Some may not be the fault of the installers though, and may be due to the laminate pattern that sometimes cannot be seen through the samples.&nbsp;Run your hand along all the edges. They should feel smooth and well-sealed. Sharp or rough edges can be dangerous, especially in high-touch areas like kitchen cabinets and wardrobe handles. Make sure you pay extra attention to built-ins where young children have access to. Peeling edges may indicate poor adhesive work or improper trimming.&nbsp;Check for surface imperfections. Are there hairline cracks or scratches on the surfaces? If you spot circular swirls or dull patches, those could be leftover buffing marks.&nbsp;Look out for glue marks, paint splatter or leftover tape. Renovation works can be messy, and sometimes contractors overlook cleaning off excess glue or stains. Pay special attention to corners and undersides. These can be hard to get rid off by yourself later.&nbsp;Is the ABS trimming included properly? ABS edges should be neatly applied, flush against the panels, and securely attached. This protects the edges from chipping and gives your carpentry a more premium finish.&nbsp;Inspect internal compartments. Open up internal compartments and drawers. Are the inside laminates properly applied: smooth, fully covered, and not cut short or uneven? Especially for wardrobes and kitchen cabinets, good internal finishing protects against moisture and wear over time.&nbsp;Shine a torch at hidden areas to check for potential defects. Areas like under your bed frame (if it was customised), behind feature walls, etc.&nbsp;Key handovers: make sure you get a complete set of keys for all the cabinet and drawers that come with locks.&nbsp;Open and close all the drawers and cabinets. Don’t just test one or two, go through all of them in your built-ins: wardrobe, kitchen, TV console, shoe cabinet, bathroom vanity, study desk, dressing table. Even if they look fine, sometimes drawers are installed too tightly and will stick or misalign over time.&nbsp;Are they aligned properly? Look at the lines. Are the cabinet doors and drawers evenly spaced? No crooked gaps or panels that stick out slightly? Misaligned carpentry not only looks bad but can also interfere with door operation. Pay special attention to tall or corner cabinets as these are more prone to warping or misalignment.&nbsp;For handle-less designs, can you open them comfortably? If you chose a handleless design (e.g. push-to-open or recessed grips), test how much effort it takes to open each one. Some push latches may require adjustment. For larger doors or tall kitchen cabinets, see if the grip area is easy to reach and use.&nbsp;Do they soft-close as promised (if applicable)? If soft-close hinges or drawer runners were included in your quotation, test them all. They should glide and close gently, not slam shut or jam halfway. See if the branded hardware is used (e.g. Blum, Hafele, etc.) if this was specifically included in your design.&nbsp;Are any of the hinges loose or are the runners misaligned? Open wide and test if any hinges are loose or creaking. For drawers, check if they run smoothly all the way in and out.&nbsp;Check for defects in the finish. Look closely at the laminate finishes. Any bubbles, peeling edges, discolouration, or warping? Pay special attention to corners and seams.&nbsp;If you want to be extra thorough, place a small spirit level on the top or bottom edge of the drawers or cabinet doors to check alignment. You’ll instantly see if anything is slightly slanted, which is especially helpful for longer horizontal units like TV consoles.&nbsp;<h4>Doors, Windows and Window Furnishings</h4><figure class="image"><img style="aspect-ratio:1216/1824;" src="https://d213h1b7vxzzl3.cloudfront.net/editor/b11f5f5a-f929-4d92-a05e-d08846f61cb6-blob" width="1216" height="1824"></figure>Design: <a href="https://www.renonation.sg/professional/the-local-inn.terior">The Local Inn.terior</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;Open and close all doors and windows a few times. Internal, external. Even “secret” ones. Even if they look fine, test them. Slide, swing, fold, whatever mechanism they use. They should open smoothly without squeaking or resistance. Poorly installed ones often become noisy over time. Some doors may have been removed and reinstalled during the reno, so double-check the hinges, alignment, and ease of movement. Any squeaking, jamming, or misalignment needs to be flagged to your ID. For sliding windows, check the track. Any debris, corrosion, or resistance when sliding?&nbsp;Check both keyed and digital locks. Are the latches aligned? Keys shouldn’t jam and locks should engage smoothly. If you installed smart locks, test their digital functions: fingerprint, PIN, mobile app connectivity, auto-lock features, etc. Consider rekeying digital locks for peace of mind.&nbsp;If you installed invisible or window grilles, are they secured and properly installed? Run your hand along the grilles. Are they taut and evenly spaced? Look closely for any signs of rust at the corners or fastening points.&nbsp;Test all window furnishings: curtains, blinds, or motorised systems. If you included curtains or blinds as part of your renovation, check the installation height and track alignment. When pulled, manual blinds should move smoothly without jerking. For motorised curtains or blinds, test the controls: remote, wall switch or app, and see if they move evenly without sagging or misalignment. Any noise during movement could indicate poor installation.&nbsp;Do doors close flush and stay shut? Some swing doors may bounce back slightly if the frame isn’t aligned properly. Others may not sit flush, leaving a small gap which affects privacy or soundproofing, especially important for bedrooms, bathrooms and home offices.&nbsp;&nbsp;Check for rubber seals or door stoppers if you requested for them. Good rubber sealing helps with sound insulation and softens door closure. Door stoppers (wall or floor-mounted) should be securely fixed and positioned so that the door doesn’t hit nearby carpentry or walls.&nbsp;Key handovers important for this section too. Don’t forget to get the keys for all new doors and windows.&nbsp;<h4>Walls and Flooring</h4><figure class="image"><img style="aspect-ratio:1250/832;" src="https://d213h1b7vxzzl3.cloudfront.net/editor/0281e1b0-25c4-4322-8901-3f345718085d-blob" width="1250" height="832"></figure>&nbsp;Stand back and observe your walls under natural light and artificial lighting. Do they look even? Watch for colour inconsistencies or patchy areas, especially if you opted for bold colours or darker tones, which tend to show flaws more easily.&nbsp;Check corners, edges and wall-to-ceiling lines. These are often where painting sloppiness hides. Are the edges clean and crisp, or does the paint look like it bled into the ceiling or skirting? If painter's tape was used properly, these lines should be neat.&nbsp;Inspect for paint drips, splatter, or roller fuzz. Sometimes you’ll find tiny paint bubbles, dried drips on the skirting, or even embedded lint from poor roller technique. Pay special attention to hard-to-spot areas like behind doors, inside bomb shelters, or behind wall-mounted shelves.&nbsp;If you went with a textured or specialty wall finish (like cement screed or limewash), is the finish consistent? These finishes are intentionally imperfect, but they should still look even across the wall, not patchy, streaked or overly uneven.&nbsp;Check that skirting boards and tile edges are aligned cleanly. There should be no waves, gaps or loose ends.&nbsp;Check your tiles. Are the right tiles used, both in design and pattern? For example, herringbone layouts or marble-look tiles have visual direction. Make sure they're aligned correctly (especially at the transition points) and not placed randomly.&nbsp;Run your hands and feet across the floor. Are there uneven joints or rough spots? For vinyl, make sure there are no curling edges or gaps between planks. For tiles, tap lightly to check for hollow-sounding spots as this could mean poor adhesion underneath.&nbsp;Check for damage from reno works. Look out for scratches, chips, or dents, especially near doorways, along corridors, and under built-ins. Moving heavy carpentry or tools can cause damage that’s easy to overlook if you’re not looking closely.&nbsp;Look at the grout lines. Are they clean, straight and consistent in width and colour? Poor grouting can lead to water seepage, particularly important for wet areas like bathrooms, kitchens and the service yard.&nbsp;For those with flooring transitions, e.g. where vinyl overlays meet tile, are the transitions done neatly with trim pieces? Is there any obvious step or gap?&nbsp;<h4>Post-Reno Cleaning (at least the basics)</h4><figure class="image"><img style="aspect-ratio:1732/1155;" src="https://d213h1b7vxzzl3.cloudfront.net/editor/62fab436-941c-461c-8fa0-d8c50c9f71ce-blob" width="1732" height="1155"></figure>&nbsp;There should be no visible dust or debris on surfaces, cabinet interiors, or floor edges.&nbsp;No leftover construction debris behind. Look under your sink, in the service yard, or any hidden spots. There shouldn't be screws, tile chips, masking tape, or empty silicone tubes left behind.&nbsp;Toilets and sinks should be scrubbed down. You shouldn't see residue, grout chunks, or dirty basins. The renovation team should at least give everything a decent once-over before handover.&nbsp;Fans and aircon should not be dusty. If your ceiling fan or aircon was installed during reno, check that they’ve been cleaned. Dust on blades or vents is a sign they skipped the final wipe-down.&nbsp;Mirrors, glass panels and shower screens should be reasonably clean and crack-free.

A Super Thorough Checklist for Your Final Walkthrough Before Your ID Hands You Back Your Home

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